My Weekly Notebook: Exhibitions

“Yves Saint Laurent 1971, La collection du scandale”

Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent

Until July 19

A new exhibition at the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent shines the spotlight on the late couturier’s infamous 1971 collection, which was inspired by the Forties.

Curated by Olivier Saillard, director of the fashion museum at Palais Galliera, the show features 40 outfits from Saint Laurent’s spring couture line, which caused a scandal because of its perceived vulgarity and its references to a dark chapter of history, the Nazi Occupation of Paris during World War II.

The exhibition also features accessories, sketches, film footage of the show and magazine spreads by the likes of Helmut Newton. The set design by Nathalie Crinière incorporates curved panels emblazoned with reproductions of Saint Laurent’s collection notebook consisting of sketches and fabric swatches in order to give visitors the feeling they are stepping into his creative process.

The catalogue of the exhibition includes an interview with Paloma Picasso, who inspired the collection with her colorful outfits culled from flea-market finds.

 

 

wwd.com
www.fondation-pb-ysl.net/fr

 

La Camicia Bianca Secondo Me. Gianfranco Ferrè 
Palazzo Reale Milano
Until l April

In the suggestive "Sala delle Cariatidi" of Palazzo Reale was inaugurated the exhibition "La Camicia Bianca Secondo Me. Gianfranco Ferrè" dedicated to the great master Gianfranco Ferre, a name that has left a mark in the history of fashion and not only Italian. 

 

The heart of the exhibition is represented by 27 white shirts on mannequin, testifying over twenty years of continuous creative research. The sartorial masterpieces displayed in chronological order and the many materials, from taffeta to crepe de chine, from organza to satin, through the tulle and silk, show how the testing of new fabrics  and care in cutting and in processing have been central in Ferrè artistic career . Enrich exposure technical drawings, sketches, advertising images and shots of Luke Wicks, narrator of fashion and  art director of Vogue Italy.

Nella suggestiva Sala delle Cariatidi di Palazzo Reale è stata inaugurata la mostra “La camicia secondo me” dedicata al grande maestro Gianfranco Ferrè,  nome che ha lasciato un segno nella storia della moda e non solo italiana.

 

Il cuore dell’esposizione è rappresentato da 27 camicie bianche su manichino, che testimoniano oltre vent’anni di continua ricerca creativa. I capolavori sartoriali esposti in ordine cronologico e i numerosi materiali che si susseguono, dal taffetà al crepe de chine, dall’organza al raso, passando per il tulle e la seta, mostrano come la sperimentazione di tessuti sempre nuovi e la cura nel taglio e nella lavorazione siano state centrali nel percorso artistico di Ferrè. Arricchiscono l’esposizione disegni tecnici, bozzetti, immagini pubblicitarie e gli scatti di Luca Stoppini, narratore di moda e Art director di Vogue Italia.

 

www.comune.milano.it

From March 8th to August 23rd, 2015

The Palais Galliera, in close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, is honouring the oldest French fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage.

Mademoiselle Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in 1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897, she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and Women’s department. That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona, Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet… Inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège. The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau. The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.

Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals, cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical French perfection, with very 18^th century style dresses – slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels.

A capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet woman. Alber Elbaz and the Palais Galliera invite you to an encounter with this great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin.

- See more at: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin#sthash.RKm0cna4.dpuf

PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEUM

Jeanne Lanvin

From the 8th of March to the 23rd of August 2015

Palais Galliera Paris

 

The first large scale retrospective about Jeanne Lanvin was unveiled at the Palais Galliera alongside Paris Fashion Week the day after the Lanvin presentation by Alber Elbaz and in his presence. The exhibition allows the public to appreciate the work of this iconic woman of fashion, who knew how to revolutionise the fashion of her era by modernising it and using the elegance of her cuts, draping and embroidery. Elbaz was personally involved in the preparations of this exhibition which reunites one hundred dresses provided from the heritage of the Lanvin house and from the museum.

www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr

From March 8th to August 23rd, 2015

The Palais Galliera, in close collaboration with Alber Elbaz, artistic director of Lanvin, is honouring the oldest French fashion house still in business. This first Paris exhibition devoted to Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946) features over a hundred models from the amazing collections of the Palais Galliera and the Lanvin Heritage.

Mademoiselle Jeanne began her career as a milliner in 1885. In 1889, she opened a shop “Lanvin (Melle Jeanne) Modes” at 16 Rue Boissy d’Anglas, then in 1893 acquired her premises at 22 Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honoré. In 1897, she gave birth to her only daughter, Marguerite, who became her primary source of inspiration. In 1908, Jeanne Lanvin hit upon the new idea of children’s clothes. The following year, she opened the Young Ladies’ and Women’s department. That same year, she joined the Syndicat de la Couture, the designers’ union, and entered the closed world of French Fashion Houses. There followed a brides’ department, departments for lingerie and furs and, in the early 1920s, interior decoration and sport. In 1926, the entrepreneurial designer launched into men’s fashion. She also opened shops in Deauville, Biarritz, Barcelona, Buenos-Aires, Cannes, and Le Touquet… Inspired by the intense blue in frescoes by Fra Angelico, that same quattrocento blue became her favourite colour… In 1927, she celebrated her daughter Marguerite’s thirtieth birthday with the creation of the legendary perfume Arpège. The famous logo designed by Paul Iribe, depicting the couturière with Marguerite, is displayed on the round bottle created by Armand Rateau. The same logo is still featured on Lanvin creations to this day.

Jeanne Lanvin used travel diaries, swatches of ethnic fabrics and a vast library of art books to feed her curiosity and inspire her to create fabrics, patterns and exclusive colours. Jeanne Lanvin represents artistry in materials, embroidery, topstitches, twists, spirals, cut-outs – all the virtuosity of the couturière’s craft. It is classical French perfection, with very 18^th century style dresses – slender bust, low waist, ample skirt – contrasting with the tubular line of Art Deco with its black and white geometrical patterns, the profusion of ribbons, cristals, beads, and silk tassels.

A capacity for hard work and an intuitive understanding of the modern world only partly explain the extraordinary success of this discreet woman. Alber Elbaz and the Palais Galliera invite you to an encounter with this great lady of haute couture, Jeanne Lanvin.
- See more at: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin#sthash.RKm0cna4.dpuf

+TOUS LES MUSÉES DE LA VILLE DE PARIS

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- See more at: http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin#sthash.RKm0cna4.dpuf

Hello dear followers, 

this is a new post for "My Weekly Notebook" when I'll select items, ideas and ispirations. 

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PALAIS GALLIERA, CITY OF PARIS FASHION MUSEU